Oxford Shoes

The Oxford is the most formal shoe a man can wear, and the most unforgiving to make. Its closed lacing, where the quarters are stitched under the vamp, leaves nowhere for a fitting error or a loose stitch to hide. That is why the whole cut Oxford, cut from a single piece of calf with one seam at the heel, is the shoe we use to judge a shoemaker.

Every Oxford in the Atelier Gabuu collection is made in Copenhagen on our own lasts. The uppers are cut from French and Italian calf leather selected hide by hide, the welt is stitched by hand and the leather sole is attached to it, so the shoe can be resoled again and again without disturbing the upper. Lining, welt thread and sole are all vegetable-tanned leather and linen.

Made to order or bespoke

Each design can be made to order in three to four months: you choose the leather, the colour, the sole and the finishing, and we build it on the last that fits you best. If you want a last carved to your own feet, the same designs are available as a fully bespoke commission, with a trial fitting in the atelier or through our remote bespoke service.

How to wear an Oxford

A black whole cut or plain-toe Oxford belongs with a dark suit, dinner jacket or morning dress. In dark brown or oxblood it moves easily to a navy or grey suit, flannels and a sports coat. Because the fit is close and the silhouette sleek, we recommend a shoe tree from the first wear and a rotation of at least two pairs.

Prices are quoted on request. Book a consultation or write to the atelier and we will walk you through leathers, lasts and lead times.